How To Remove The Plastic Coating On Stainless Steel Appliances Cleanly
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Information technology's Monday 03/21/22 & your Q or A is Welcomed!
Chinkle in on this rare "no registration/nosotros don't track you" site
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"Removing protective plastic film adhesive remainder from stainless steel, brass, etc."
Many successes were reported with hot/boiling h2o, ammonia, or acetone.
Q&A's, oldest first
2003
Q. Our visitor manufactures and installs sheet-metal systems for enclosing piping, wiring, etc. in commercial construction. We are before long working with a stainless-steel textile that comes from the metal suppler covered with a protective plastic film. This moving picture is removed at the job site after installation. The motion picture is sometimes extremely difficult to remove, often leaving a heavy agglutinative residue on the metal. We have tried to remove this residue using MEK / methyl ethyl ketone, lacquer thinner [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] , Xylene [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] and Toluene products, and even gasoline and WD-40 [affil. link to info/production on Amazon]. None of these solvents have any significant result on the adhesive residue. What do nosotros need to remove this residue?
Thanks.
Beak D [last proper name deleted for privacy past Editor]
Tech Rep. - San Bruno, California
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Ed. note: Several people accept recommended that readers proceed immediately to Terry Due south'southward entry of June 17, 2011 equally the simplest solution.
2003
A. I utilize "Unseal adhesive releasing solvent". Works great but is very expensive. Agile ingredient is Heptane. Information technology is manufactured by Chase Corporation in Statesville, NC. You can get small container (32 Fl.Oz) from your local picture frame molding supplier. Catalog # 470. I hope it volition work for you.
Danny T [terminal name deleted for privacy by Editor]
Fine art, framing - Hayward, California
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2003
A. Recently discovered a citrus solution that works wonders: De-Solv-It [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] made past Orange-sol.
Michael Liu Taylor
specialty stainless steel benefactor - Dallas, Texas
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2003
A. Pecker,
Y'all actually should discover out WHAT the roofing material was and WHAT, if whatsoever, was the 'glue' used! Then and so only could people make suitable suggestions.
Let'southward hope that those other people's helpful suggestions volition work .... but when you mentioned a slew of effluvious hydrocarbons, I was a-wondering if the protective sleeving was Polyethylene which had somehow 'heat bonded' itself to the sheeting ... in which case, Oh Dear ... maybe heat would take to exist used.
Freeman Newton [dec]
(It is our lamentable duty to advise that Freeman passed abroad
April 21, 2012. R.I.P. former friend).
^
2003
Thanks to everyone for responding helpfully to my question about removing adhesive residue from stainless-steel sheet metallic. I besides made direct inquiry to the 3M company and they suggested if the adhesive resists organic solvents like toluene, MEK, xylene, etc., as well as citrus-based products, the agglutinative may be acrylic-based and information technology might exist attacked with household ammonia. This was indeed the example. Household ammonia removed the adhesive residuum easily.
Nib D [returning]
- Port Townsend, Washington
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2006
Thanks so much for keeping this information out on the spider web. I bought a stainless-steel gas range, and take been unable to get the residual off with WD40, hair spray, etc.
The ammonia worked similar a charm! Now I can cook in the new oven. I believe the protective plastic did not pull off cleanly considering of the hot climate down here in Mexico.
Thanks over again.
Linda G [final name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Paamul, Q. Roo, Mexico
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Plastic moving-picture show on Vermont B-B-Q Grill
2006
My greatest appreciation to Bill D for his tip well-nigh household ammonia dissolving plastic film on stainless steel. I alive in the Dallas area and plant a peachy 5 burner Vermont grill I actually coveted. Every bit the price was mode more than I could upkeep, I caressed it fondly every visit and kept cooking abroad on my old Wal-Mart grill. After Christmas THE grill was put on clearance. They had left the protective plastic on and displaying information technology in the Texas heat melted it to the steel ... a discounted price of $300+. After trying everything from De-Solve-it to the blow dryer to remove information technology I Googled and ended upwards at your site. The ammonia melted the plastic, fifty-fifty in the crevices, and removed the adhesive balance. (Total $2.19!)
The grill looks brand new, has been appropriately installed and merely this weekend broken in!
Thanks for the nifty time and money saving tip!
Linda C [concluding name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Dallas, Texas
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2006
Thank you, Thank you, Thank YOU. I as well bought the Vermont Casting Grill at the Clearance price simply to have the same glue/plastic staining/residue ... I am ownership ammonia tomorrow. Thanks.
Sara C [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania
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2007
Q. I have the aforementioned Vermont Casting Grill from Abode Depot with the plastic baked on. I tried the ammonia, but did not come across the plastic deliquesce. I have a feeling that I am not applying it properly. Can someone please let me know how they used the ammonia on their grill.
Thank you
Dov S [concluding proper name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Sammamish, Washington
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A. Hi Dov. Keep reading and Alison 1000'due south posting of November 22, 2008 explains how she applied the ammonia. Good luck.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Embankment, New Jersey
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February vii, 2009
! I didn't get the hoped for melt-away on my Vermont Castings barbecue. After about 40 minutes of soaking via ammonia covered newspaper towels, however, it was easier to scrape off. I then used non-acetone blast polish to get the glue residue off. (didn't have Acetone type). Still have plastic on back side of the hood around small-scale vent holes and don't plan on making myself nuts getting it off. Cheers for all the suggestions, I doubtable a lot depends on how long it's been stuck on.
Jan Clarence
- El Paso, Texas
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August 26, 2010
! Read this post, constitute some household ammonia, used it on the blueish plastic on the doors to my new BBQ. The blue stuff just peeled right off. It doesn't just dissolve away. Information technology seems to just loosen the plastic from the steel then that it tin can be peeled away easier. Start at a corner of the blue, utilise a bit of ammonia with a rag and and then start peeling. My brother-in-law (who knows everything) stumped. I said I would become check on the net and voila - in that location was the solution. Thank you all.
Pat Kvill
- Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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2006
Q. We have stainless steel panels inside our library, in the 6000 sq. ft. vestibule area. I am trying to remove mucilage remainder from supposedly removable little foam stickers off the stainless panels and it's taking a long time and the fumes are just near killing everyone. I first tried low odor Goof Off 2 [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] and then Scrubs Graffiti and paint remover [affil. link to info/product on Amazon]. At that place'due south a lot of residue to remove so I'm looking for something quick only not also stinky. thanks,
Jim B [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
library - Zion, Illinois
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2006
A. My own routine is to try rubbing alcohol first (Isopropyl Alcohol [affil. link to info/product on Amazon]). If that doesn't piece of work well, try ammonia. If that doesn't piece of work, try Acetone [affil. link to info/product on Amazon]. If that doesn't work, resign myself to picking, pulling, rubbing, scrubbing, cursing, and throwing stuff.
Ammonia and acetone won't impairment most finishes, simply might ruin some, then try to examination on underside or inconspicuous spot.
Ted Mooney , P.Due east.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pino Beach, New Jersey
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2007 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread
Q. Dearest Sir,
Nosotros are Stainless steel fabricators in Dubai, UAE. We have a major problem in ane of our projection sites. Nosotros had installed a stainless steel hand rail and the plastic which was covered on the pipes is melted and has got stuck on the pipage and is finding it very difficult to remove the plastic.
Kindly provide us a suitable solution at the earliest. We tried cleaning with WD 40, thinner, etc., but failed.
Please answer at the earliest.
Cheers,
Mahmood B.S
General Manager - Dubai, UAE
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2007
Q. I'm a stonemason contractor at the NJ shore that congenital an outdoor rock kitchen area. The homeowners bought and installed small Delfield Refrigerator and freezers that were installed around the stone. Being summer residents, they reminded me to remove the protective plastic blanket from the doors as they were not present at the site. Unfortunately I got busy and subsequently a couple of months the lord's day got to the doors before I could. I was able to skin some of the plastic off, all the same about has embedded itself where without using solvents it'due south a millimeter by fingernail procedure. I haven't tried whatsoever solvents except a quick dab with ammonia which did nothing. I'm a bit hesitant to use Goo Gone [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] or Goof Off [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] every bit a last resort equally I'm afraid that I may wipe any protective coating which will induce rust. I need help in direction or products, solvents, heat gun, annihilation that may piece of work.
Marshall Gemal
Owner - Long Branch, New Bailiwick of jersey
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Plastic film on covering sheets
April xvi, 2008
Q. Howdy young man sufferers of the accursed plastic cling foil to metallic surfaces.
I accept the same problem with a corrugated powder coated steel roof.
I have tried acetone, vinegar, domestos, meths, turps, petrol (gasoline to North Americans), heat gun, detergent and diluted pool acid to no avail.
The damn stuff is indestructible - whatsoever ideas from anyone would be welcome
Thanks to ane and all
Ken Myers
- Penrith, NSW, Australia
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May 22, 2012
Q. I have a painted metallic roof where the plastic protective coating has fused to the metal panels. Nosotros left the protective coating on thinking we were protecting the roof from contractors who were working on it just didn't realize the work was going to take this long so nosotros left information technology on as well long and now it is almost impossible to remove. The areas that were exposed to the sun are the worst. I accept tried warm h2o, estrus gun, ammonia, goof off, goo gone with no luck. These products will remove the residue where I tin can remove the plastic -- simply for the virtually part I am stuck with the plastic not being able to be removed.
Nick Delli Veneri
- Ridgewood, New Bailiwick of jersey, USA
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May 28, 2014
Q. Please tell me what happens if the plastic cover on the top surface is not removed while installing the sheets on the roof?
Manu N Hegde
- Mysore, Karnataka, Bharat
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May 2014
A. Hi Manu. Are you referring to a plastic protective film?
It's hard to predict consequences ("For desire of a nail ... the battle was lost"), but peradventure information technology may create pockets of rainwater that become stagnant and smelly, or accelerate the corrosion. The motion-picture show is supposed to exist removed. And if you don't practise information technology now, Ken warns that it will only get harder :-(
Expert luck.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.Due east.
Striving to alive Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Bailiwick of jersey
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May 28, 2008
Q. UNFORTUNATELY, A LOAF OF BREAD WAS ACCIDENTALLY LEFT ON THE Peak OF OUR STAINLESS STEEL CONVECTION TOASTER OVEN WHILE IT WAS Blistering AT ABOUT 400°F. THE COLOR OF THE Bread WRAPPER Actually SEEMS TO BE EMBEDDED IN THE STAINLESS STEEL. I Have Not ATTEMPTED TO Make clean THIS. SHOULD I USE AMMONIA? OR Another Production?
SHARI GUNDY
- ST. PAUL, Minnesota
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June 5, 2008
Q. I approximate I used the stove before taking the blue protective cove off the face of the door, then after a painful time removing information technology I observe a glue cloud mark on the front but I tin can non seem to remove it with paint thinner or soup and water.
Whatever ideas what might work?
DW
Toronto
Dean Waltr
- Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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June eight, 2008
Q. Same problem but in my example, I'g a trucker with 6 stainless steel under-storage compartments. I've tried simply about everything mentioned above. Nosotros truckers like things shiny so I am getting a trivial p-o'ed with this. Today, I went to Home Depot and bought a angle grinder, a Crossive half-dozen" disc, a mitt held buffer too as buffing compound. I intend to grind this stuff off and mar this finish up and so use the compound then vitrify it out with metal polish. I'll allow ya know how it works!
Christopher Bennett
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
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June nineteen, 2008
A. To the people asking about removing the protective plastic picture stuck on stainless steel appliances, nail shine remover with acetone works perfect. I first tried goo-gone which didn't piece of work, then read about using acetone and it works perfectly. Removes it make clean off.
Lisa Wells
- Clearwater Beach, Florida
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November 22, 2008
A. Bought a new/used stainless steel outdoor fridge. Prior owner let the blue plastic film shrink-wrap and melt to the door. Tried everything to remove it. And so found this column. I soaked a washcloth with lemon ammonia and let it gear up on the door (set horizontal) for 15 minutes. Then used a plastic scraper to scrape away the softened picture show. Worked bully and did not hurt the brush stainless finish. Thank you!
Alison MacKenzie
- Poway, California
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March 23, 2009
A. I simply purchased a new stainless wall oven and put it in. The Blue Plastic Film was stuck to information technology like a price tag. I gear up for an hour with an orangewood stick carefully pulling the movie off piece by piece and worked for an hr doing this. I was at my wits-end and decided to await for an reply online. I did endeavour several things and it did not piece of work. And so I read on this site about acetone and had some and got some cotton wool balls and practical it to the area that I was working on. It made the pic turn loose and then I went back over the area once again with the acetone and got the gum off. Information technology took me 15 minutes to become all of it off, and I am pleased to say information technology really works. I worked on a very pocket-sized area for over an hour and finished all of it including polishing the over in 15 minutes . Thanks for the help.
Terry Works
- Rainbowcity, Alabama
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May half dozen, 2009
Q. I recently (may 2009) purchased a proper name brand refrigerator that came with the standard, protective aircraft moving picture, that when removed, left an almost invisible balance. You lot can see it best when you look at the refrigerator from an bending. The manufacturer says to employ soapy water and a sponge...tried that. Didn't piece of work.
Also tried vinegar, ammonia, and orange degreaser. All the same nothing.
I have heard to try WD-forty, goo-gone and xylene. I of course don't want to ruin the stop of the fridge, but would like this rest removed.
Whatsoever advice would exist appreciated. Thanks.
Alan Jacobson
hobbyist - phoenix, Arizona
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May 23, 2009
A. Like shooting fish in a barrel. Use a blowtorch, melt the plastic and wipe off with a cloth. Slow but constructive.
Johan Sunpay
- Pretoria, South Africa
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June 30, 2009
Q. Nosotros have metallic garage doors where the previous owner/architect failed to remove the plastic protective motion picture and it has now sun-broiled onto the surface. I have tried a number of solvent based product with no success. I have even tried pressure washing at about 2500 psi 40 degree spread. t took the loose bits off only the majority remains firmly adhered to the painted metal surface. Should I consider just painting over it?
Ken Ines
- Vancouver BC Canada
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July 1, 2009
A. Aye, I'd say information technology's unfortunately sounds like information technology's on for good and endeavor Krylon Fusion [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] pigment.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
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July 26, 2009
A. Success! After reading this column, I figured I would try Citric solvent, ammonia, acetone and Goof-off (in that gild) to remove the blue cellophane from a nice stainless microwave some friends gave usa. They had used it for a while without removing the protective file, and it was hopelessly stuck and leaving a pasty residue. Nosotros happened to accept a bottle of Orangish TKO "super full-bodied cleaner", and information technology worked similar a charm. It did NOT work instantly. I had to pour the orange concentrate on the remaining blue plastic, spread it around, and wait for a few minutes. And so, using a paper towel soaked in the cleaner, my thumbnail would easily scrape the plastic off. It even started coming off in sheets (like information technology was supposed to) later soaking for a little longer. I even so had to scrape with my fingernail through the soaked newspaper towel to get some stubborn parts off, but it was spotless after 15 minutes of work.
Joe Cordes
- Berkeley, California
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August 18, 2009
Q. Would Shellac, Kilz [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] (oil), or Zinsser Zinsser Cover Stain [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] work in a situation where the plastic coating has baked on to a primed metallic door over a 10 year menstruum of time? Which would be the best pick.
Cheers
Len
Len Doerksen
- Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
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August 28, 2009
A. I have had to remove the plastic pic from stainless steel on many occasions over the years so was surprised/happy/febrile when I came across this site suggesting that ammonia would remove the film. Wow, I thought, is this what I accept been missing! So I tried it, but alas, information technology wasn't to be. Actually, I probably would have been pissed thinking about all of the work I could have avoided.
Anyhow, the ammonia seemed to make no deviation at all. The plastic I am talking about is the white kind that is standard from the mill to protect polished SS. Information technology is very tough and, if left exposed to sunlight, is most impossible to remove without trashing the underlying surface. The bones trouble is that the white (vinyl?) blanket makes it very difficult to get at the mucilage with anything that tin soften information technology.
Hither's what I accept found to be the best manner to remove this plastic coating from polished SS:
- Apply a rut gun (mine is a B&D Estrus and Strip) and a 1 1/two" putty pocketknife, to estrus the plastic coating and gently scrape it off the surface. This is the slow role. Someone else here suggested a blow torch, but I accept found that that tin damage/distort the surface. Be sure to piece of work in the directions of the polishing to minimize surface damage.
- The outcome will be a mottled, greasy-looking surface, the remains of the plastic and the gum.
- Next, using rubber gloves, utilise a generous film of Jasco h2o based paint stripper, all over the surface. Wait v minutes and then re-strip with the putty knife. This should remove most all of the residue.
- Buff out the remaining residue with a newspaper towel soaked in Jasco.
- Buff out whatsoever remaining scratched with a SS pot scrubber, again working in the management of the underlying polish. Incidentally, NEVER use mild steel tools or steel wool on a SS surface. If you exercise, atomic iron from the balmy steel will get embedded in the surface where it promptly rusts and discolors it.
Hope this helps. Tim
Timothy Hicks
- Seattle, Washington
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April 29, 2010
A. I can absolutely 2d the approach taken by Timothy Hicks (described to a higher place).
I used a oestrus gun (the blazon used on compress tubing) to rut upward the white vinyl (which effectively melted it) and a soft cloth to wipe it off. I was then left with the mucilage remainder. A combination of Goof Off [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] and a citrus cleaner worked fine. No marks or stains on the metal at all.
Notes:
It takes a *long* time to do this. Figure thirty mins for 2 ten 2 ft sheet of stainless sheet;
Clothing a respirator - the fumes from the heated vinyl are toxic - you don't want to exist breathing them in.
Practiced luck!
Colin Bodell
- Atherton, California, The states
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September 9, 2009
A. Every bit a vendor of temporary surface protection films, I may be able provide some insights on this topic. Said insights may or may not be of whatsoever assistance, depending upon your particular "how-practise-I-remove-this-*#^&*%*^-stuff?!" situation.
* The majority (though non all) of the protective films manufactured in the Us, today, are comprised of a h2o-based acrylic agglutinative coated onto LDPE (low density polyethylene) plastic. The white and black films (with the agglutinative on the blackness side) commonly used to protect stainless steel are co-extruded LDPE films. Extruding two sparse layers of molten plastic in contact with each other makes a stronger, more than abrasion resistant flick for the same amount of plastic equally 1 thicker layer.
* Water based acrylic adhesives are pressure level, UV lite, dwell fourth dimension and heat sensitive adhesives. The more yous have of each of these variables, especially in combination with each other, the "better" these adhesives perform ... to the indicate where they won't let go of either the surface being protected nor the carrier movie they rode in on. As I believe someone said before in this thread, the adhesive and/or plastic becomes "baked" onto the surface. If the surface has a texture that the agglutinative can get into, consider it to be twice baked. Though it is slight, brushed stainless steel does have a texture.
* LDPE plastic is not-permeable ... liquids cannot penetrate it. Which is why you can't get your adhesive dissolving agent to work straight on the agglutinative.
* LDPE plastic cannot be dissolved by near chemicals. If your liquid adhesive-remover arrived in a plastic bottle, chances are pretty good that that particular liquid isn't going to deliquesce a plastic film ;-)
* LDPE won't break down, deliquesce or degrade in less than 500 years, except at very high temperatures which would probably cause those few hazardous chemicals that volition dissolve it to flare-up into flames.
* As noted by Tim, stainless steel can be stained and/or discolored. What sometimes appears to be agglutinative residue is actually a stain in the steel. Buffing or other treatments may exist required to get rid of the stain.
* Other, somewhat specialized, protective films are fabricated with either polypropylene, MDPE, vinyl/PVC or latex saturated papers.
Net-Net: the odds of getting a plastic film to literally dissolve without lots of applied heat, are non in your favor. Concentrate on finding a [mechanical] method of removing the film and so address the agglutinative mess that got left behind.
Rick Pietrykowski
- Rockwall, Texas
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September 23, 2009
Q. Hey Everyone,
Looks like we've all exist scratching our heads on how to remove the 'baked on' plastic film. Mine outcome is what Rick P from Texas called "twice broiled'. I too bought a house where the previous owner had installed an insulated white finished steel wood grained look of a garage door where the previous owner listened to installer and his suggestion to 'leave on the plastic moving-picture show as it will but protect the doors finish'! what a crock. I'm now left with this huge double garage door with a cracked, clay filled plastic shell terminate that seems to be bomb proof. I take tried the orangish stuff, nail polish remover, gasoline, cooking oil, oestrus gun (Started to harm the surface), wonderwheel (Automotive pinstripe remover, which just smeared the plastic) and finally ammonia. Zip has worked. The manufacturers of the door don't fifty-fifty know what to do, other than tell me that the guy should have removed the film on installation. I'm at my wits end with this project, merely will not give up. There has to be an answer with this. Ammonia simply cleans the surface, only the plastic is still there, and as tough as nails, it's simply cleaner! So someone Please Assistance with an reply. This is MAJOR double baked!
Chris Stockster
abode possessor - Oakville, Ontario, Canada
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Motion picture on brass kickplate
Oct 1, 2009
Q. Can I endeavor all these same methods on a brass boot plate that the film has been left on for many years, or would some of these products damage the brass finish?
MARCIA OLSON
- Auburn, Washington
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October 27, 2010
Q. I am writing to attempt to help my husband who is a contractor and is having a hell of a fourth dimension trying to make clean new polished brass door kick plates for 1 of his customers. When he was ready to install the kicking plates, he peeled off a protective film from the brass. When he did this, the make new plates looked discolored and it seems equally if some of the protective coating was left on the brass. We cannot get the remainder off and we are concerned about ruining the polished brass surface with cleaners. If someone has suggestions, we would actually appreciate it and and then would his customer.
Sarah Polselli
Contractor - San Diego, California, USA
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Oct 27, 2010
A. Hi, Sarah. Brass tarnishes rapidly, so there is no way it stays polished unless it is protected with a lacquer or other clearcoat. So this is trickier than some of the other bug. Endeavour acetone or lacquer thinner; they should remove the gunk and the lacquer, if it is in fact lacquer. Then redo the lacquer.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.Due east.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pino Beach, New Bailiwick of jersey
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October 14, 2013
A. A give-and-take of warning when using ammonia. Practice not employ it on brass. It volition plough contumely equally black as the within of your chapeau. I learned the hard way when trying to remove the pic from brass proper noun plates that were to be etched.
Neil Coy
- Lexington, Ohio, Us
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October 29, 2009
A. I have tried for a number of days to come up up with a method of removing some of the black and white LDPE moving-picture show from some carts that were built a few years agone and stored in a location where they saw sunlight. Every bit with most people I tried every solvent I could think of. Then I did some searching and found that Xylene [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] at elevated temperatures would penetrate the LDPE. What I constitute to work was to utilize a rut gun and warm the metal. And then I soaked a towel in Zylene and placed it on pinnacle of plastic and allow it sit. Later 10-20 min, the plastic coating peeled off as if it were new. Nice and easy leaving no residual. I did get it a footling likewise hot in a few places and melted the plastic adequately severely. Simply what I establish was that by laying the towel over the area second time for a few minutes, the remainder wiped right off.
Peter Novacek
- Menomone Falls, Wisconsin
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Apr 6, 2010 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread
Q. How can I remove plastic type cover from stainless steel door panels? It had dried out and stuck like paint over the fourth dimension.I appreciate whatsoever suggestions.Cheers all. Jorge G.
Jorge Gallego
elevator tech. - New York City, New York
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April 11, 2010
A. My daughter had a production that removed Artificial Nails past dissolving the gum .
I tried this with a cotton pad, the gum residue dissolved VERY easy........10 out of ten
Brian Gardner
- Northampton, England
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April 20, 2010
A. Had the same problem with the protective blanket on aluminium composite panels that had been exposed to the African sun for about ten months. Tried all the suggestions with no luck. Eventually had success with a loftier pressure cleaner.
Chris Bode
- East London, South Africa
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September 26, 2010
! My husband and I bought a brand new oven from an outlet shop that had been returned for any the reason, but it was beautiful... until nosotros got it domicile and tried to peel off the blue plastic film. It had melted onto the oven so we used Goo Gone which sort of helped, but it took at least a painstaking hr to pare off the film even with Goo Gone. It was off, but there was a residual that was not coming off with the Goo Gone no matter how hard I scrubbed.
In my frustration, I turned to the web. We didn't have whatsoever Ammonia, merely I had a non-acetone nail smoothen remover. I used a cotton fiber ball to apply the nail polish remover and it worked instantly! My husband and I used that and within 10 minutes the oven looked amazing! Nosotros wiped it with a microfiber textile later on applying the blast smoothen remover. Then nosotros polished it with stainless steel polish. It's beautiful. Thank you!
Jacqueline Coll
- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
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Apr 26, 2011
Q. Howdy! I have the aforementioned problem as many of you do. I bought a used kayak Aluminum puddle that had plastic coating on it. It was stored in the heat and I cannot remove the plastic picture. I have tried solvents with no luck. Can someone please help me. Will heat ruin the aluminum? Thank you for any assistance..
Susie Dicerbo
homeowner - Harrison Township, Michigan, The states
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May 9, 2011
A. Y'all might attempt a gas fired catalytic heater. They exercise not give the intensive oestrus of heat guns. Their face temperatures can be adjusted from 350 °F to 900 °F. The heat is medium rays infrared.
Dave Howie
- Edmonton Alberta Canada
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June xvi, 2011
A. Protective blue plastic left a balance on a new refrigerator. Read the posts and opted to try nail polish remover with acetone. Worked like a charm!
Thanks everyone for your collective input!
Tony Calderon
- Mississauga Ontario Canada
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July 26, 2021
A. Acetone was a miracle resolution to removing plastic motion-picture show from a Stainless Steel BBQ Grill. Thanks for the invaluable tip.
Teresa Renner
- Santa Rosa [California]
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June 17, 2011
A. Okay kids...this is the bargain: Nosotros simply boiled some water in a tea kettle and poured information technology on the doors of the outdoor gas BBQ, and presto...the blueish motion picture peeled off in a wink. Taking off the residue in boosted to the film...Piece of cake and free!!
Terry Smith
- seattle, Washington
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July 28, 2011
I had fitted a stainless steel oven a twelvemonth ago but had not yet moved into the house so the picture was never taken off. It had been getting the morning / afternoon sun everyday and the blue film was "double broiled". I had been struggling for the past 2 days trying to peel the blue film off. Finally googled it and came across this thread and right at the cease was Terry Smith'due south solution. Immediately boiled some water and took off the oven door and poured the humid water on it, the film peeled off like it should take when it was new. It was as simple as that. unfortunately I still have the gum residue where I had been peeling information technology flake by scrap. Tomorrow morning I'll head to the supermarket for some ammonia and will effort that out. Hopefully that should work. I think
Terry's respond should be on tiptop of this thread, then people don't accept to struggle with other things when the solution was so simple.
Thanks a lot, Terry.
Kunal Dhabuwala
- Auckland, New Zealand
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March 31, 2013
Nosotros had white wrapping on our new, just installed canopy range hood. Some of it peeled of easily every bit you would expect only a big area did not. We were working it little by little with our fingers peeling information technology and it took an 60 minutes to get just half of it off. Institute the boiling water solution mentioned by Terry earlier in the thread(afterwards trying and declining with nail polish remover). Just boiled h2o and poured it on the range hood, then tried peeling immediately - worked like magic! Just remember to wear gloves when pouring the humid water...it's rather hot. There is still glue residue then will endeavour ammonia to make clean that off when nosotros tin concord of some. Would beloved to see Terry's solution posted at the top of this thread too, as some other person has pointed out information technology would relieve many people much fourth dimension in searching through the thread. Thanks!
Chris Winn
- Raetihi Ruapehu, New Zealand
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April 1, 2013
A. Hello Chris. We've added that notation to the height, merely please remember that at that place are dissimilar films, adhesives, and situations. Just as you similar Terry S's reply, because it worked for your detail situation, even more readers swore by ammonia because it worked meliorate for them, and a good number establish just acetone (nail polish remover) effective :-)
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Bailiwick of jersey
^
August 9, 2011
Q. How would you get rid of the adhesive on the back of a combination lock?
Donald Scott
- St. Catherines, Ontario, Canada
^
October four, 2011
A. I figured it out! I simply had to remove the picture from 4 elevator doors on a mega million dollar high-rise. Information technology had been left on for four years. The condition was like to gold flake film with a tar adhesive adhering it to the stainless. It was not fun at the outset, merely I learned the pull a fast one on to doing information technology.
Afterward reading and and trying everyone'southward recommendation and failing, I found that a combination of a few of your suggestions worked like a amuse. Using a razor blade window scrapper, a heat gun, and goo gone.
With the blade, identify it on an edge of the picture show. With the oestrus gun, warm the point were the razor'southward border meets the moving picture until it starts to peel up. Slowly and advisedly piece of work your way down, trying not to intermission the moving-picture show you are peeling away. Pull the estrus away a niggling once y'all go started, while staying in forepart of the blade. Information technology peels similar butter without a scratch. Then use the Goo Gone to clear off the remaining adhesive.
A couple hand cramps later and you lot are washed!
Anthony Gonzalez
- Huntington Beach, California, USA
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October 10, 2011
Q. When our stainless refrigerator was delivered it had a protective bluish plastic covering on to forbid scratching. We were in the process of renovating and left the plastic on for several months and now take marks that won't come off with stainless steel appliance cleaner. Please allow me know what to use to get these marks off??
Debra Brown
Purchaser - 7 Valleys, Pennsylvania
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November 18, 2011
! Wow, I couldn't believe it! Was kind of depressed when we opened our dishwasher box, it had been in storage for a yr and when we finally got effectually to installing information technology I couldn't become all of the wrap (blue) off of it. The wrapper came off but left a residue and smears on the face of the stainless steel door. Information technology looked horrifying. Tried the ammonia and inside seconds it was gone. Cheers so much for this proposition, as I would have had to await at that ugly stain forever as elbow grease just was not taking it off.
Carolyn Burke
- Kingston, Ontario, Canada
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December 1, 2011
Q. We had some plastic car body painters sheeting that got stuck to a surface that wasn't quite cured. Is in that location any solvent that would melt that sheeting without damaging the paint too much? Or does anyone know what kind of plastic that sheeting is?
Jeff Reimer
Industrial painter - Alberta, Canada
^
December 2, 2011
A. Hullo, Jeff.
I don't call up there is a chance in a million of removing that sheeting without ruining the pigment (in fact the pigment may already be ruined, pushed down or pulled up). But I am not a painter and would certainly dear to hear that I was wrong. The plastic is probably a polyolefin or vinyl, very chemically resistant anyway.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Bailiwick of jersey
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January fourteen, 2012
A. The blueish film on my new stove front was nearly impossible to remove. I used household ammonia and gently worked under the edge of the flick with a saturated paper towel. Every bit I pulled and rubbed at the edging at the same fourth dimension, it truly was an amazingly wonderful result! Thank you!
Karen Wineholt
- Spring Grove, Pennsylvania
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July 8, 2012
O.One thousand.G. my whole day and then far has been trying to go a clear film off of a white metallic shed door. Once once more, we idea the plastic was protecting the door until all work other effectually information technology was finished - which ended up beingness a total of about three years.
I have tried the humid hot water, a warm h2o and soap soak using towels to continue it soaking, Glass Plus, Green Works, ammonia, paint thinner, rubbing booze. Cipher was going well at all then I went to boondocks and purchased a Heat Gun this afternoon. No assist. I am seriously thinking of but ownership and installing a new door. The companies that sell plastic coated items should accept to tell y'all that you exercise need to remove the coating right away or mail service a large warning sign on them nearly the protective seal. This is over the elevation annoying and frustrating and I feel like crying.
Joanne Chase
- Port Alberni, B.C., Canada
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December 25, 2012
A. I bought a stainless steel dual-fuel range for my wife for about half the price of a new model. Someone had purchased information technology years earlier and never peeled off the protective plastic and never installed information technology. I was really frustrated trying to remove the plastic bit by bit scraping with my fingernail, until I discovered a great method.
I started to use my fingernail in the center of a patch of plastic instead of the edge. It turned a brighter shade of white. At first I just thought I might take but scratched the surface but so realizes that scraping on the plastic actually broke it free underneath. Once you see the bright white appear, you tin can work it all the style to an edge.
My married woman saw what I was doing and grabbed a plastic spoon that worked much improve than a fingernail. Do not employ it to effort to scrape like a putty knife, use it to stretch the plastic from the center and break the bond at the surface. Once you turn everything vivid white, you tin can peel the sheet off in 1 piece.
I even so take to deal with the adhesive residuum that is left behind, but later reading about the methods others have written nearly here, I don't think that volition be a trouble.
Phil Rinella
- Lock Haven, Pennsylvania
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December 29, 2012
Ammonia worked for me. In 15 minutes flat I was able to remove the protective plastic on my dish washer. Thanks for all the tips. Large upwards to this site.
Robert Carvalho
- Cedar Valley, St. Johns, Antigua
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January 16, 2013
Q. How can I remove melted rubber (gloves) off of an appliance.
Patricia McGowan
house wife - Odenton, Maryland, Us
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January 16, 2013
A. Hi Patricia. What kind of appliance and what stop? Paint, porcelain, stainless steel, aluminum, ceramic, glass are very different things. But it nevertheless may exist impractical or incommunicable.
Still, you lot might accept a await at topic 14006 "Melted Rainsuit on Motorbike Exhaust Pipes" and see if you retrieve it might help.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.E.
Striving to alive Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
^
February 2, 2013
A. I am building my abode myself and I installed a stainless steel range hood a couple of years ago and made the mistake of leaving the protective covering on until I was done with the kitchen. The hood had a heavy white plastic covering which I was able to pull off with some effort. The gum that was left behind came off hands with the citrus cleaner GOO GONE.
I also installed a 12 inch high stainless steel filler between the hood and the bottom of the pot shelf rather than a cabinet that would be of picayune use to me. The filler piece was covered with LDPE and therein lies the problem. Subsequently finding this thread, I tried various methods to remove the LDPE with no positive results. I finally purchased an electric rut gun (575 & 1125 degrees) and a plastic putty pocketknife (Dwelling house Depot). Using the heat gun on Depression (575 deg), I heated the LDPE to the melting point and and then used the plastic putty knife, in a nearly perpendicular position, to scrape the plastic off the stainless. If the plastic is heated plenty, it volition come off at least 95% clean. After the LDPE is removed, the remaining black part that is left on the metal will come up off with household Ammonia and a Scotch-Brite Non-Scratch scrub sponge. Any lilliputian bits that resist the scrub sponge can be scraped off with the plastic putty knife.
Caution: Ever direct the heat flow away from the cabinets since 575 degrees can damage the forest finish. Where the filler came in contact with the bottom of the pot shelf, I used a 14 inch broad broad knife to protect the enamel paint from the hot air from the heat gun. Exercise not use flame as it could discolor the stainless. Do not use a metallic scraper or a metallic pot cleaner because it will scratch the stainless.
I had also used some blue painters tape to cover whatsoever parts of the range hood that were non covered by the factory installed protective film. To remove the glue left after removing the record, the household Ammonia works just fine.
Recollect, low rut and no metal tools. Accept your time and don't blitz this job. Damage the stainless and you lot'll take to alive with it or pay to replace it.
After everything was cleaned, I used a stainless steel cleaner to end the job and the stainless looks great. Good luck and remember, the endeavor will be worth it.
Hank Cusanek
- Phoenix, Arizona
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February eleven, 2013
A. Short answer = Product name in Commonwealth of australia LIQUID 8 (paint stripper gel)
Long answer...
I had same problem with a stainless steel refrigerator. Tried MEK, Acetone, Ammonia, Sulfamic Acid, Citric Acid the list goes on all with no effect. Was ready to resign to scratching and picking away
I and so remembered I had a pigment stripper gel which I 'thought' was citric acid based (was told that when I bought information technology) but the ingredients are 180 one thousand/L Liquid Hydrocarbon / 180 thousand/L 2 Butoxy Ethanol and 180 thousand/50 N-Methyl-2-Pyrrolidone. The production is called LIQUID eight.
Brushed on the gel and left for recommended 15-xxx minutes and although not great results I could see it was working. Left it another 30 minutes and the plastic pic literally wiped abroad. A few little tougher spots took a 2nd go but what had taken me nearly of a day trying came down to being all washed in near and hour and a half and most of that time was waiting for the gel to do its stuff.
One thing to notation this stuff is not kind to plastics so proceed it off any trim etc, I accidentally hit a couple spots and some minor burn down marks.
Brad Walker
- Western Commonwealth of australia, Commonwealth of australia
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February 23, 2013
A. v words: Jasco Pigment and Epoxy Remover
I tried everything above. Bought a isle kitchen hood on ebay new just installed. They didn't say they left the plastic on for a year in the sun. White moving-picture show , I spent three hours using vinegar, acetone, ammonia , oestrus gun and plastic spoon. Jasco brushed it on waited 10 minutes and peeled information technology off with my hands; no large mess. Wiped down and I have a cute Stainless hood which would have price $600 for $200.
mitchell cline
- aurora, Colorado
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April 15, 2013
A. I'd like to take time to respond about white PVC plastic protective covering on stainless steel. When we get equipment that PVC covering has non been removed in years, take it outside, hook your garden hose to hot h2o, accommodate your nozzle to jet. Now article of clothing rubber gloves with cotton wool gloves under the rubber gloves. Mayhap you need to wear a rain suit -- yous will get wet. Retrieve this water is hot; wear safety spectacles. Start spraying one spot for a few seconds until it loosens upwardly.
When your start peeling off PVC, keep hot spraying while you are doing this. Information technology will have time; you lot tin go to a cocky operated car wash if they have hot water. Have fun.
Ken Smith
food equipment - Runnemede, New Jersey
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June 11, 2013
A. I tried warm water, ammonia, and rubbing alcohol to remove the protective bluish coating on my chrome sink. Smash polish remover did the trick. I still had to rub, just it clearly dissolved the coating and did not hurt the chrome finish.
Note: Having a teenaged girl, I had two bottles of nail smoothen remover, each with a little at the bottom in the house. The starting time one was Cutex for natural nails, and promised to work 2-3 times faster than the others. It was the best. The other (regal) one was not every bit good merely I used both up and ran to the dollar shop for more. Their generic brand worked fine, not as fast every bit the Cutex, but improve than the royal stuff, and information technology had a nice smell!
Bess Taylor
- Marshall, Virginia, United states
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June 17, 2013
Q. I am a superintendent at my structure company and have "congenital out" three floors of an occupied building. Upon entering the final cleaning phase, I noticed that the white and black protective film on the stainless steel elevator doors was never removed since original construction some 5 years agone. I can't seem to get it off and need to be able to use a low V.O.C. agent due to the existing occupancy. HELP!
Victor Terwilliger
construction - Norfolk, Virginia
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August 15, 2013
A. I work at a industrial manufacturing facility that specializes in stainless, and nosotros've had similar problems. Our best solution for getting the blue plastic off is to heat it with a hair dryer style rut gun, then wipe the goo left behind with acetone.
Peter Brazil
- Port Townsend, Washington, USA
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February 20, 2014
A. I recently purchased a dishwasher with a stainless steel finish that came wrapped in blue plastic. The plastic came off easily just the imprint of information technology (xiv inches wide) could still be seen on the finish. It wasn't gluey but wouldn't come off with stainless steel cleaner, nail polish remover, or vinegar. However, undiluted household ammonia and some elbow grease removed it completely and left a beautiful finish. Thank you to everyone who suggested ammonia every bit I would non have thought to effort it and it worked!
Fifty. Wehrmann
- Richmond, Virginia USA
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July 7, 2014
A. The item y'all want to use to remove agglutinative off stainless or other items is denatured booze, then Windex with micro cobweb cloth on stainless.
Edward Welch
- golden valley Arizona
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July 28, 2014
A. I removed the mucilage rest from my stainless steel fridge with Brasso. It took it correct off and I tried about everything.
Brian roche
- Villa rica Georgia United states
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December 12, 2014
A. I purchased a used stainless steel BBQ and discovered that on the back of information technology, the previous owner didn't bother removing the plastic cover which of course was now baked on. It took iii days of almost 2 hours per 24-hour interval and most of it is now gone. What I did was the following:
1. Get actress strength Easy Off Oven Cleaner (Lye)
2. Estrus upwards the surface, in my case I use a heat gun initially, but and then turned on the BBQ
3. Spray Easy Off on the surface, vesture a mask, the fumes are nasty
4. Permit sit down for nigh 10-20 min
5. User a difficult plastic spatula to remove the residue, also wet rag after (get a bag of them at Lowes/HD)
vi. Yous'll demand to echo this multiple times based on how much stuff at that place is baked on.
This was a PITA, I withal accept a little bit remaining, but information technology is mostly clean.
Yev Kovelman
- Los Angeles, California
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October four, 2015
A. The all-time method to utilize is a torch, assuming there'south no cloth next or under the stainless steel that will be harmed by the heat.
Yous can still use a torch if at that place'southward something next to the stainless that can't get too hot, simply you have to work fast and don't go beyond liquefying the plastic you're trying to remove.
Yes, basically I'm saying you're liquefying the plastic and wiping information technology off while it's withal fluid. Post-obit is an image of me removing plastic movie with a torch that had been on an detail that was outside for 14 years!
Gary Timson
Restaurateur and tradesman - Lancaster, California
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Remove sun-baked vinyl packaging from garage door
May 25, 2014 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread
Q. I left the cellophane plastic on garage door (vinyl) immune it to be baked in sun ... now difficult to remove. Need guidance every bit to any solutions or technique.
len zap
- indio California usa
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August 27, 2014
A. The company I work for is a new commercial truck dealer. When we get new Mack trucks in from the factory the aluminum fuel tanks are covered with a protective picture. The film is well-nigh like a powder coating or Rhino lining in texture and durability, more than then the longer information technology stays on and exposed to the sun. We accept struggled with removal techniques but it seems like the most constructive and least time consuming is a HOT pressure wash.
Sidney Dotson
- Knoxville Tennessee
^
Dec 26, 2014
Q. I recently bought a auto that has a film over the plastic lens cover of the headlight.
Co-ordinate to a local here, some folks put glass darkening moving picture over the plastic headlight cover to look "hot".
While information technology may look "hot" , simply at dark it darkens the head light then you practice not see the road well.
Have taken it to a paint store and they said they could do cypher, then took it to a galss shop and that does darkening moving-picture show on glass windows hither in the desert and they said they did not know what to do. But it is a film and being a plastic, nigh are scared of touching/trying to remove since the base of operations is a also plastic and they call back they may scratch the lens encompass.
Any assistance?
bob
robert mcthor
individual indiv. - palm springs, calif, USA
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February 12, 2015
How-do-you-do,
The boiling h2o worked neat on a stainless steel camera flash handle that had clear record that had yellowed. The handle being fifty years onetime and tape applied at that time.
The handle was fairly small so I was able to boil it in a large pot for x minutes. The hard outside of the tape boiled off and the residuum was easy to scrape off with a plastic fruit peeler. My wife was non home while I was doing this otherwise there might have been a lengthy discussion regarding using the kitchen utensils for this purpose. :-)
Not bad tip without using chemicals and sooo cheap.
Maurice Bradshaw
- Norcross, Georgia, Gwinnett
^
July 14, 2015
A. BOILING WATER!! it works like a amuse, you have to work quickly every bit the moving picture will absurd and adhere to the metal. Wearing leather gloves, I poured the heated water every bit I removed the film. As it cools, don't tear the film off completely so you can go on pulling the film as you apply the next batch of hot water on the surface. It'southward easier with two people but I did it myself. The white motion picture that remains can be cleaned with windex or ammonia.
Linc Lucer
- Seal Beach, California, USA
^
February 24, 2015
Q. I built my own house. It took iii years and at the end of the starting time year I had installed my patio doors. Two years subsequently, I've institute that the plastic film covering the drinking glass on the doors had baked on. Scrapping doesn't budge it. I'm very reluctant to use a oestrus gun or boiling water as the glass might fissure. any ideas?
Victor Damski
- Lowestoft Suffolk UK
^
July 28, 2015
A. Hi,
You can effort smash smooth remover, or ethyl acetate. Wipe the edges of the flick and when the adhesive layer weakens, shoot and so on.
Dmitriy Azarchenkov
- Moscow, Russia
^
August 16, 2015
Q. I never removed the protective film off my outdoor french doors. they baked in the dominicus and I removed the plastic just the residue has remained and I tried to remove it with broth removal a very little came off only later on rubbing it for a very long time. Is there annihilation else I can do to remove this sticky residuum? Thanks
phil spadafora
- dix hills New York
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September 12, 2015
Q. Nosotros remodeled our home and had a SS Viking range and hood installed. The contractor did not take the plastic white moving-picture show off from the underside or sides of the hood. We are slowly peeling it off but now that the hood has already been installed it's a nightmare! The boiling water idea sounds great only there's no way to pour boiling h2o onto something you're trying to clean upside downward. We have to be in the virtually contorted positions just to work at information technology a little. To compound the problem the film seems to go underneath the edges of the trim and light sockets so fifty-fifty when nosotros get the picture show off to that point, it won't budge. We're worried about using acetone etc. since it's above where we cook and difficult to run into where we're applying it and then cleaning it off. Any thoughts virtually removing this stuff after the SS piece has already been installed?
Annie Wilkinson
- Layton, Utah, U.South.A.
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October xiv, 2015
A. This worked very apace and very efficiently:
On a pair of new Range Hood filters the blue picture show was near impossible to remove until I soaked them in HOT h2o where the plastic became soft so it literally washed off.
Cheap solution if cipher else.
David Drew
- Toronto Canada
^
October 17, 2016
A. And so you've finally peeled the old film off of your stainless appliance, only to find an immovable film of glue left behind.
Ran into this after waiting over a year to peel a fridge in our exhibit. Tried everything (including the bottle of Rye in the back) to no avail, everything but smeared the glue! Then the old grey cells all of a sudden jumped back to life (could of been all of the cleaners that I had inhaled) and I remembered that Brake Fluid removes paint (amongst other things). Gave it a try and much brake fluid and many newspaper towels later my 36" 10 84" fridge now gleams. Caution, brake fluid volition dissolve plastics!!! Mask off any plastic that may come up into contact with the Restriction Fluid!!! Give information technology a final wipe down with rubbing alcohol and you have a very make clean and shiny fridge or other stainless appliance.
Dennis Farkas
- Calgary, AB, Canada
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August thirty, 2017
A. As for removing the glue after removing the sheeting, use mineral sprits or Zep stainless steel smoothen; it likewise makes information technology shine
Ricky Gee
- mt. sterling, kentucky
^
June 7, 2018
A. I had purchased an aluminum fender for a car trailer with old sunday browbeaten bluish plastic film that came off in small fragments. After reading this site I SOLVED the problem: I used paint remover [affil. link to info/production on Amazon], let it sit for ten minutes, and scrubbed it off with a soft bristle brush. Worked like magic.
Doug jones
- Milwaukee Wisconsin
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July 25, 2018
A. Peanut butter more specifically the oil that floats on top of natural peanut butter volition remove all adhesives naturally and cheap!
Belinda Lovins
- Thornton Colorado
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September 5, 2018
A. Forenoon, I accept a metal roof that the blue protective tape has been baked on. Some volition pare off a footling. What seems to piece of work the best is a propane torch only plenty to melt the tape & agglutinative then wipe with a fabric. Just keep moving along & rotate the fabric to a clean surface area. Caution the record will be very hot and can stick to and fire your skin. It's fourth dimension consuming only works!
Good Luck
Dale Dom
- Crescent City, Florida, The states
^
May 5, 2020
Q. I have an outdoor grill that has been in Texas heat for few years with "laser film" white roofing. I tried applying ammonia, nail polish remover and scrapping information technology, but no luck getting it out.
Jay Nayyar
- Southlake, Texas, USA
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take a expect at letter
May 25, 2020
A. Blue film on dishwasher would not come off with heat gun. I had a tin can of "penetrating catalyst", used to remove rusted bolts) and it worked beautifully. Spray on and allow sit. Spray again. await. Peel from edge.
Brian H [last proper name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Dallas, Texas, U.s.
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Ed. note: If you're nevertheless not weary, letter 30965 offers boosted solutions :-)
Disclaimer: Information technology's non possible to fully diagnose a finishing problem or the hazards of an operation via these pages. All information presented is for general reference and does non represent a professional opinion nor the policy of an author'south employer. The internet is largely bearding & unvetted; some names may be fictitious and some recommendations might be harmful.
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